Electrolux E20
Drainage Problem
Medium severityExpert Guide
SeverityMedium
What Your Machine Is Actually Telling You
When your Electrolux washer finishes the wash phase, the control board sends power to the drain pump — a small impeller-driven motor that pushes water out through the drain hose and into your home's standpipe or laundry sink.
At the same time, the board monitors the pressure switch — a sensor connected to the tub via a thin air hose. As water drains, the air pressure in that hose drops, telling the board "water level is going down." If the pressure switch doesn't register a significant drop within about 8 minutes, the board concludes the drain has failed and throws E20.
Here's the important nuance: E20 doesn't necessarily mean the pump is broken. In roughly 70% of cases, the pump is working fine — it's just blocked. Electrolux front-loaders have a coin-trap filter at the bottom-right that catches debris before it reaches the pump impeller. Over months, this filter accumulates lint, coins, hair ties, buttons, and even small socks that slipped through the drum gasket. Eventually, the blockage restricts water flow enough to trigger E20.
On some Electrolux models, the related code E21 specifically indicates the pump is running but water still isn't moving — suggesting the impeller itself is jammed by a foreign object.
At the same time, the board monitors the pressure switch — a sensor connected to the tub via a thin air hose. As water drains, the air pressure in that hose drops, telling the board "water level is going down." If the pressure switch doesn't register a significant drop within about 8 minutes, the board concludes the drain has failed and throws E20.
Here's the important nuance: E20 doesn't necessarily mean the pump is broken. In roughly 70% of cases, the pump is working fine — it's just blocked. Electrolux front-loaders have a coin-trap filter at the bottom-right that catches debris before it reaches the pump impeller. Over months, this filter accumulates lint, coins, hair ties, buttons, and even small socks that slipped through the drum gasket. Eventually, the blockage restricts water flow enough to trigger E20.
On some Electrolux models, the related code E21 specifically indicates the pump is running but water still isn't moving — suggesting the impeller itself is jammed by a foreign object.
What You're Probably Seeing Right Now
- The cycle stopped and you can see standing water through the door glass — the drum may be half or fully submerged.
- You hear the drain pump humming or buzzing, but the water level isn't dropping — this usually means the pump motor works but the flow path is blocked.
- The pump is completely silent — no hum at all when you press Spin or Drain. This points to a dead pump motor or wiring issue.
- Water drained partially, leaving 2-3 inches in the drum — this suggests a partial blockage or a kinked drain hose.
- There's a foul smell from the machine or the filter area — stagnant water trapped behind a blocked filter starts to smell within 24-48 hours.
DIY Fix — From Easiest to Hardest
1
Emergency Drain — Get the Water Out First (5 minutes)
Before you can diagnose anything, you need to drain the standing water:
1. Grab **towels and a shallow pan** (baking dish works great).
2. Open the **small service flap** at the bottom-right of the machine. On most Electrolux models, it either pulls open or has a small release tab.
3. You'll see two things: a **small rubber emergency drain hose** (looks like a black tube with a cap) and the **round filter cap** behind it.
4. Pull out the emergency drain hose first. Place the end in your pan, remove the cap, and let water trickle out. **This will take 3-5 minutes** for a full tub — you'll need to empty the pan several times.
5. Don't open the main filter cap yet — water will flood the floor.
**Pro tip:** If your pan is small, keep a second one ready for quick swaps.
1. Grab **towels and a shallow pan** (baking dish works great).
2. Open the **small service flap** at the bottom-right of the machine. On most Electrolux models, it either pulls open or has a small release tab.
3. You'll see two things: a **small rubber emergency drain hose** (looks like a black tube with a cap) and the **round filter cap** behind it.
4. Pull out the emergency drain hose first. Place the end in your pan, remove the cap, and let water trickle out. **This will take 3-5 minutes** for a full tub — you'll need to empty the pan several times.
5. Don't open the main filter cap yet — water will flood the floor.
**Pro tip:** If your pan is small, keep a second one ready for quick swaps.
2
Clean the Debris Filter — This Fixes 70% of E20 Errors (10 minutes)
Once the water is drained:
1. Place towels under the filter area — residual water will spill.
2. Slowly unscrew the **round filter cap** counter-clockwise. Go slowly — more water will come out.
3. Pull the filter assembly straight out. You'll likely find a collection of **lint, coins, buttons, hair ties, paper clips, and fabric scraps**.
4. Look **inside the pump housing** with a flashlight. Behind where the filter sat, you can see the **pump impeller** — small plastic blades. Reach in carefully and spin them with your finger. They should rotate freely. If something is jamming them (bobby pins are common), pull it out.
5. Rinse the filter under hot running water. Use an old toothbrush to scrub the mesh screen.
6. Inspect the **rubber O-ring** on the filter cap — if it's cracked or flattened, it won't seal properly and will leak.
7. Reinstall the filter: push in straight, then turn clockwise until hand-tight. Don't overtighten.
**Important:** Run a short test cycle and check for leaks around the filter cap before pushing the machine back against the wall.
1. Place towels under the filter area — residual water will spill.
2. Slowly unscrew the **round filter cap** counter-clockwise. Go slowly — more water will come out.
3. Pull the filter assembly straight out. You'll likely find a collection of **lint, coins, buttons, hair ties, paper clips, and fabric scraps**.
4. Look **inside the pump housing** with a flashlight. Behind where the filter sat, you can see the **pump impeller** — small plastic blades. Reach in carefully and spin them with your finger. They should rotate freely. If something is jamming them (bobby pins are common), pull it out.
5. Rinse the filter under hot running water. Use an old toothbrush to scrub the mesh screen.
6. Inspect the **rubber O-ring** on the filter cap — if it's cracked or flattened, it won't seal properly and will leak.
7. Reinstall the filter: push in straight, then turn clockwise until hand-tight. Don't overtighten.
**Important:** Run a short test cycle and check for leaks around the filter cap before pushing the machine back against the wall.
3
Check the Drain Hose for Kinks and Blockages (5 minutes)
If the filter was clean, the blockage may be in the drain hose:
1. Pull the machine forward about 12 inches.
2. Follow the **corrugated drain hose** from the back of the machine to where it connects to your standpipe or sink spigot.
3. Look for **sharp kinks** — especially where the hose makes a turn near the wall or where it was pinched when pushing the machine back.
4. Check the hose isn't pushed more than **15cm (6 inches) into the standpipe**. Too deep = siphoning, where water flows back in as fast as it drains out.
5. If you have access, **disconnect the hose from the standpipe** and aim it into a bucket. Run a Drain cycle. If water flows freely into the bucket, the hose is fine and the clog is in your house plumbing.
1. Pull the machine forward about 12 inches.
2. Follow the **corrugated drain hose** from the back of the machine to where it connects to your standpipe or sink spigot.
3. Look for **sharp kinks** — especially where the hose makes a turn near the wall or where it was pinched when pushing the machine back.
4. Check the hose isn't pushed more than **15cm (6 inches) into the standpipe**. Too deep = siphoning, where water flows back in as fast as it drains out.
5. If you have access, **disconnect the hose from the standpipe** and aim it into a bucket. Run a Drain cycle. If water flows freely into the bucket, the hose is fine and the clog is in your house plumbing.
4
The 'Bucket Test' — Is Your House Plumbing the Problem? (3 minutes)
This test separates a machine problem from a plumbing problem:
1. Pour a **large bucket of water** directly into your standpipe (the pipe in the wall where the drain hose goes).
2. **If the water backs up or drains very slowly**, the clog is in your house plumbing, not your washer. You need a plumber or a drain snake, not an appliance technician.
3. **If the water flows down quickly**, your plumbing is fine and the issue is inside the machine.
**Common plumbing cause:** Lint from the washer accumulates in the standpipe over years. If you've never snaked this pipe, it's likely 50%+ restricted.
1. Pour a **large bucket of water** directly into your standpipe (the pipe in the wall where the drain hose goes).
2. **If the water backs up or drains very slowly**, the clog is in your house plumbing, not your washer. You need a plumber or a drain snake, not an appliance technician.
3. **If the water flows down quickly**, your plumbing is fine and the issue is inside the machine.
**Common plumbing cause:** Lint from the washer accumulates in the standpipe over years. If you've never snaked this pipe, it's likely 50%+ restricted.
5
Check the Pump Impeller for Damage (5 minutes)
With the filter removed, you can inspect the pump impeller directly:
1. **Shine a flashlight** into the pump cavity.
2. Spin the impeller by hand. It should turn smoothly with a slight magnetic resistance (this is normal — the pump motor has magnets).
3. **If blades are broken or chipped**, the pump can't move water effectively even though the motor runs. The pump needs replacement.
4. **If the impeller won't turn at all**, something is jammed deep inside — or the motor shaft is seized.
**Caution:** Never reach into the pump cavity with the machine plugged in.
1. **Shine a flashlight** into the pump cavity.
2. Spin the impeller by hand. It should turn smoothly with a slight magnetic resistance (this is normal — the pump motor has magnets).
3. **If blades are broken or chipped**, the pump can't move water effectively even though the motor runs. The pump needs replacement.
4. **If the impeller won't turn at all**, something is jammed deep inside — or the motor shaft is seized.
**Caution:** Never reach into the pump cavity with the machine plugged in.
6
Hard Reset the Control Board (2 minutes)
Sometimes the E20 code latches even after the blockage is cleared:
1. Unplug the machine from the wall (don't just press Power off).
2. Wait **10 full minutes** — this allows the capacitors on the control board to fully discharge.
3. Plug back in.
4. Select a **Rinse + Spin** cycle and press Start.
5. Watch for the drain phase — if water pumps out normally, the E20 was a stuck code.
**If E20 returns within 2 minutes**, the problem hasn't been resolved — the pump, wiring, or pressure switch needs attention.
1. Unplug the machine from the wall (don't just press Power off).
2. Wait **10 full minutes** — this allows the capacitors on the control board to fully discharge.
3. Plug back in.
4. Select a **Rinse + Spin** cycle and press Start.
5. Watch for the drain phase — if water pumps out normally, the E20 was a stuck code.
**If E20 returns within 2 minutes**, the problem hasn't been resolved — the pump, wiring, or pressure switch needs attention.
When to Call a Pro
- •Pump is completely silent (no hum at all during drain) — the pump motor has failed or the wiring harness is disconnected. Replacement cost: $150-$280 with labor.
- •Impeller blades are visibly broken — the pump body needs replacement. This is a common issue on machines over 5 years old with hard water.
- •E20 appears immediately on every cycle regardless of water level — this may be a pressure switch fault rather than a true drain problem. The board thinks there's water even when the tub is empty.
- •You smell burning from the pump area — the pump motor is seizing. Stop using the machine immediately to avoid electrical damage to the main board.
- •Multiple error codes appearing together (E20 + E21 + other codes) — this pattern often indicates a main control board issue rather than a pump problem.
What It'll Cost You
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