KitchenAid F23
Heater Failure
Medium severityVerified Diagnostic Guide
SeverityMedium
What Your Machine Is Actually Telling You
F23 specifically means the heating element's resistance is infinity (open circuit) — the internal resistance wire has physically broken. Unlike F24 (water not heating up), F23 is a direct electrical measurement confirming the element is dead.
F23 vs F24:
- F23 = element resistance is OL (open circuit). The wire inside broke.
- F24 = water temperature isn't rising. Could be element, sensor, or board.
- F23 is more specific — you know it's the element.
How the KitchenAid heater element works: A U-shaped metal tube contains a coiled resistance wire embedded in ceramic insulation. Electricity passes through the wire, generating heat that transfers through the ceramic to the metal sheath and into the wash water. When the wire breaks (usually from thermal fatigue or limescale), the circuit opens.
Common causes of element failure:
1. Limescale buildup (35%) — calcium insulates the element, causing it to overheat internally.
2. Age/thermal cycling (30%) — thousands of heating cycles weaken the wire.
3. Dry firing (15%) — element energized without sufficient water coverage.
4. Power surge (10%) — voltage spike burned through the wire.
5. Manufacturing defect (10%) — weak spot in the wire.
F23 vs F24:
- F23 = element resistance is OL (open circuit). The wire inside broke.
- F24 = water temperature isn't rising. Could be element, sensor, or board.
- F23 is more specific — you know it's the element.
How the KitchenAid heater element works: A U-shaped metal tube contains a coiled resistance wire embedded in ceramic insulation. Electricity passes through the wire, generating heat that transfers through the ceramic to the metal sheath and into the wash water. When the wire breaks (usually from thermal fatigue or limescale), the circuit opens.
Common causes of element failure:
1. Limescale buildup (35%) — calcium insulates the element, causing it to overheat internally.
2. Age/thermal cycling (30%) — thousands of heating cycles weaken the wire.
3. Dry firing (15%) — element energized without sufficient water coverage.
4. Power surge (10%) — voltage spike burned through the wire.
5. Manufacturing defect (10%) — weak spot in the wire.
What You're Probably Seeing Right Now
- Hot/warm cycles produce cold water.
- Cold cycles work perfectly.
- Washing results have declined — stains not dissolving in cold water.
- F23 appeared on an older machine — element reached end of life.
- No GFCI tripping — this is an open circuit, not a ground fault.
DIY Fix — From Easiest to Hardest
1
Verify with Multimeter (5 minutes)
1. Unplug. Remove rear panel.
2. Locate the heater — large U-shaped element at tub bottom.
3. Disconnect element wires.
4. Test resistance: **10-30Ω** = good. **OL** = confirmed dead.
5. Ground test: terminal to tub = **OL** (should be infinity).
**If ground fault detected** (any reading to tub), the GFCI will trip when you try to use it.
2. Locate the heater — large U-shaped element at tub bottom.
3. Disconnect element wires.
4. Test resistance: **10-30Ω** = good. **OL** = confirmed dead.
5. Ground test: terminal to tub = **OL** (should be infinity).
**If ground fault detected** (any reading to tub), the GFCI will trip when you try to use it.
2
Order the Correct Element
1. Find your **exact model number** (inside door or rear sticker).
2. Search for the heating element using the model.
3. **KitchenAid/Whirlpool elements:** $25-80.
4. Elements come in different wattages and lengths — match exactly.
**Cross-reference:** Many KitchenAid elements are the same as Whirlpool/Maytag — often cheaper under the Whirlpool part number.
2. Search for the heating element using the model.
3. **KitchenAid/Whirlpool elements:** $25-80.
4. Elements come in different wattages and lengths — match exactly.
**Cross-reference:** Many KitchenAid elements are the same as Whirlpool/Maytag — often cheaper under the Whirlpool part number.
3
Replace the Heating Element (20 minutes)
1. Unplug. Remove rear panel.
2. Disconnect element wires (note positions).
3. Disconnect thermistor (if attached to element housing).
4. Remove center nut — loosen until flush with stud.
5. Push the stud inward — this pushes the internal retaining plate.
6. Wiggle element out of the tub.
7. **Clean the mounting hole** — remove scale and old gasket material.
8. Install new element — push in straight.
9. Tighten center nut (don't overtighten — the gasket expands).
10. Reconnect all wires.
11. Check for leaks before running.
2. Disconnect element wires (note positions).
3. Disconnect thermistor (if attached to element housing).
4. Remove center nut — loosen until flush with stud.
5. Push the stud inward — this pushes the internal retaining plate.
6. Wiggle element out of the tub.
7. **Clean the mounting hole** — remove scale and old gasket material.
8. Install new element — push in straight.
9. Tighten center nut (don't overtighten — the gasket expands).
10. Reconnect all wires.
11. Check for leaks before running.
4
Test the Thermistor Too (3 minutes)
While you have access:
1. Measure thermistor: ~10,000Ω at room temp.
2. If bordeling or dead — replace now for $10-25.
3. **Combo replacement** saves a future service call.
1. Measure thermistor: ~10,000Ω at room temp.
2. If bordeling or dead — replace now for $10-25.
3. **Combo replacement** saves a future service call.
5
Leak Test After Installation
1. Fill the tub to normal level.
2. Watch the element gasket for any drip.
3. If leaking: tighten center nut 1/4 turn at a time.
4. Run a hot cycle — confirm temperature rises.
2. Watch the element gasket for any drip.
3. If leaking: tighten center nut 1/4 turn at a time.
4. Run a hot cycle — confirm temperature rises.
6
Descale Monthly (Prevention)
Prevent future element failure:
1. Run hottest cycle empty monthly.
2. Add 250g citric acid or 2 cups white vinegar.
3. This dissolves limescale from the element surface.
4. Use a water softener in very hard water areas.
1. Run hottest cycle empty monthly.
2. Add 250g citric acid or 2 cups white vinegar.
3. This dissolves limescale from the element surface.
4. Use a water softener in very hard water areas.
When to Call a Pro
- •Element gasket leaking after replacement — incorrect installation: $80-$180.
- •Board heater relay — board repair: $150-$400.
- •Element AND thermistor dead — combo replacement: $100-$250 installed.
What It'll Cost You
Swipe left to see full table
Frequently Asked Questions: Error F23
What does error code F23 mean on a KitchenAid washing machine?
Heater element open circuit.
What usually causes the KitchenAid F23 error?
The primary cause is: Heating element burnt out.. It may also be caused by temporary sensor misreadings or wiring connection issues.
How do I reset and clear error F23?
Test heater continuity and replace if open. If the error persists, unplug the washer from electrical power for 10 minutes to perform a complete logic board reset.
Is it safe to continue using the machine with error F23?
This code has a Medium severity level. While the machine might run, resolving the issue early prevents long-term wear on internal parts.